May 3, 2024 – by Mark C. Anderson
Look no further than the chile verde chilaquiles, butter-cheddar-bacon biscuits, famous Ramos fizzes, gravy-draped chicken and waffles, Baker’s Bacon croissant breakfast sandwiches or five-star Bloody Marys (with more Baker’s Bacon).
A short list of greatest hits at the Grill at Point Pinot—the big-portion, big-personality, big-flavor spot that makes a case for one of the best brunches, best golf course restaurants and best fried chicken spots in the area—are enough to inspire a visit.
Main recipe architect-owner-operator Tamie Aceves starts the taste-making process with a couple of question.
“We are always about, ‘What do people really want?’” she says. “What will they crave?”
Then there’s the three-letter version of the process: fun.
Sure, making a place fun to eat at seems like a self-evident aim. So why aren’t more places more fun?
Aceves’ upbeat way has something to do with it. Her extensive experience catering for big festive events at Holly Farm or Laguna Seca Raceway also plays in.
Another big piece of it happens with hiring: Her former spot La Crema and her catering team has always seemed to skew younger, but no less professional.
The culinary web chef-caterer-restaurateur Tamie Aceves has woven includes hot dog legend Lucy’s on Lighthouse (which her partner and pal Joleen Green took over) and former brunch destination La Crema (which could see a new iteration if the right spot becomes available).
“Hospitality is a family situation, because you’re going to war together in a way—you become close in your shared values and what you’re doing,” Aceves says. “I want people to be comfortable and enjoy the experience. We have a kinda younger vibe, maybe it’s a little more accessible, and maybe I take a chance on hustlers, on people who learn guests’ names, and help regulars feel like it’s their spot.”
Long-tenured kitchen staff, meanwhile, provide informed input on evolving dishes and have had lots of reps to dial in consistency. Plus, Point Pinos gets other details right, because they mean a lot to local eaters, from using only organic Glaum Ranch eggs to juicing their own juices to giving single-use plastics the boot (not easy anywhere, but that much harder at a golf course).
And maybe because it’s tucked into Pacific Grove Municipal, Point Pinos Grill also remains under the radar, despite a robust social media life, recent renovations and liberal use of stained glass butterflies.
“A lot of people don’t realize we’re there,” Aceves says. “The whole place is completely different than it used to be.”
All these rank among reasons I’ve long had GPP brunch pegged as a Friday Found Treasure-to-be.
But not the reason it had to be this week.
Sometimes a Found Treasure sneaks up on you.
Other times, a Found Treasure has been sitting there the whole time.
And still other times, it smacks you right in your inbox.
This falls into the latter category.
Dorothy Maras, longtime chef empress at Pebble Beach Food & Wine, texted me to celebrate a gear shift for Meals on Wheels of the Monterey Peninsula, and one of its signature fundraising events, happening Sunday, May 5.
Speaking of treasures, MOW has long been an incredible community jewel and a rallying point for legion chefs (including Bert Cutino) who have given deeply because they believe hospitality shouldn’t stop for those who don’t get out to restaurants as much.
As Aceves herself says, “What we do as chefs and restaurateurs is give people food and experiences, and that’s what Meals on Wheels is doing for those later in their life. It’s a natural extension.”
Maras messaged to say its annual Woman of the Year luncheon will no longer be a luncheon, or seated, or at lunch time.
“We’ve got this great organization of people that feeds so many and carries on a great tradition of service—not just for older people but those with all sorts of challenges that keep them in the home,” she says. “Now we’re infusing the organization with more of the vivacity of our foodscape.”
Keeping with the theme, 2024’s celebration will honor Aceves and reflect the same energy she’s aiming to bring MOW as a longtime board member, namely more engagement of a younger generation of chefs.
“We have a really awesome culinary culture in the 831, with an amazing renaissance of young chefs and new restaurants,” Aceves says.
Where there were once chairs and round tables, there will now be a strolling cocktail party with a DJ and tasting stations worthy of honoring a master event caterer, from Sarah and Boo Simms (new Carmel Valley spot Lady & Larder), Tony Baker (OG FFT Baker’s Bacon), Danny Leach (Crispy Nuggets), Justin Robarge (Folktale Winery), Annie Hobbs (A Taste of Elegance/Mirth), plus Isaiah Cortright and Chase Ewing (MOW’s hardworking kitchen team with the white tablecloth pedigree).
Aceves’ La Crème Monterey team will also host a table deploying a DIY grazing station to maximize guest decision-making and (yes) the f-word.
“I want it to be fun,” she says. “That’s my lane.”
More at the local Meals on Wheels website, The Grill at Point Pinos’ Instagram page and GPP website.
